Honeymoon (2)

Wednesday, March 30
After a quick breakfast from the Kailua farmer's market, we headed over to the Hamakua Coast on the northeast side of the island to check out Waipi'o Valley. The area has deep cultural significance for Native Hawaiians, and you can see why it inspires reverence.

We hiked down to the floor of the valley, where people still live today (like Darren, the friendly park staffer we spoke with at the lookout point by the parking lot). Once at the bottom, we trekked inland for a while along a dirt road. There were a few houses along the way, many of them with signs posted asking passersby to "malama our 'aina," or respect our land. Apparently, some tourists have been less than courteous toward the residents' property and privacy. Eventually, we turned around and made our way over to the ocean where it meets up with a stretch of black sand beach.
We had a picnic lunch and a little stroll along the shore.
After hiking back up to the parking lot, we hung around in the small town of Honoka'a before heading over to our lodging for the night.
Akiko Masuda is from Honolulu, but she's lived everywhere from Oakland to Africa. She got the idea to open up her B&B in Wailea after doing the famed 88 temple pilgrimage on the Japanese island of Shikoku. We highly recommend her digs for Buddhists and non-Buddhists alike!
We stayed in the Mango Tree Cottage -- very rustic. After settling in, we drove down to Hilo for dinner at Miyo's. It was Akiko's suggestion, and it was delicious.

Thursday, March 31
We don't know when the coqui frog found its way from Puerto Rico to the Hawaiian Islands, but it sure makes its presence known now. We were able to sleep through their loud chirping without a problem, but if you ever do have the chance to stay at Akiko's, you might want to think about bringing ear plugs.
She cooked us a dynamite breakfast, and then we went for a look at Akaka Falls, perhaps the most famous of the Big Island's waterfalls. Legend says Akaka was some kind of philanderer, who got caught and then committed suicide by jumping off the precipice. The water cascading down is supposed to be his lovers' tears.
We checked out the nearby historic town of Honomu for a spell before heading back down to Hilo, where we stumbled upon a storefront for Suisan Company. They were selling maybe 20 different kinds of poke. As the locals say, broke da mouth! The guy who served us seemed to harbor some mild disdain toward Punahou, where our president went to high school, and whose colors Alec was representing. Go figure.
Next, we took in Lili'uokalani Park and Gardens.
They aren't especially big, but they are picturesque. Afterward, we took a dip in the ocean off of adjacent Coconut Island before picking up dinner at a supermarket and heading back to Akiko's.